varese sacro monte
One of the top three sites on the eastern shore of Lago Maggiore, the Sacro Monte di Varese (Varese Holy Mountain) should not be missed. The two kilometre via crucis, lined by 14 chapels, winds its way along the crest of a ridge poking up through the trees. It leads to a gorgeous unspoilt village, the sunny, south-facing borgo offering breath-taking views as far as the eye can see in just about every direction.
Whatever the weather and season, this place is enchanting.
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Even on overcast, snowy days in winter, when other places are melancholy and gloomy, the Sacro Monte remains intensely atmospheric and evocative.
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But despite the inevitable crowds, the area is arguably at its best on a clear summer’s day with a slight breeze blowing. On these days, when the village is diffused with brilliant light, you can see as far as Milan, Monviso on the French border and the Apennine mountains on the far side of the Po Valley.
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The ideal way to visit the 14 chapels and the little borgo (old village) is of course to follow the pilgrim’s way from the First Chapel all the way up to the hilltop sanctuary: Santa Maria del Monte with its rich baroque decorations. There is a height difference of 300 metres between the top and bottom and the route is cobbled so make sure you wear suitable footwear.
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For many, the highlight is the gorgeous, perfectly preserved borgo, at just over 800 metres above sea level, on top of the ridge, a tangle of narrow cobbled alleyways and terracotta roofed houses stacked one on top of each other. High above the lowland hustle and bustle, this area is a haven of peace, but if you really want to get off the beaten track, all you have to do is to continue beyond the village and explore the vast forested Campo dei Fiori mountain and the nature reserve rising up to 1227 metres.
There is a network of 18 signposted paths many of which are theme-based, focusing on areas such as springs, chestnuts or karst caves.
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A total of 130 caves have been discovered so far. The area can be reached either by car, bus or funicular railway.