Pouring down a steep, wooded slope, a cascade of traditional village dwellings, seemingly stacked one on top of each other, the sleepy village of Someraro is a charming rustic backwater. Most houses enjoy sweeping views down the main arm of the lake all the way to Switzerland and it is for this reason that the village is known locally as the roof of Lago Maggiore. The stunning 180° vistas take in many of the lake’s most famous sites, including Stresa and its three famous islands, cliff-hugging Santa Caterina on the distant shore, Verbania, Villa Taranto  and the bucket lift up to Sasso del Ferro above Laveno.

 

Someraro is close to bustling Stresa, but far enough away to allow you to appreciate this village’s peace and quiet. Driving uphill from Stresa, you soon leave the crowds behind and find yourself in a slow-paced world of narrow winding lanes and complete peace and quiet where birdsong is often the only sound. An idyllic location to return to after a busy day’s sightseeing - though just five minutes by car from Stresa.

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The last village shop closed a few years ago but there are still two restaurants: Il Rustico at the top of the village and Cardini which also doubles as a bar and very small seasonal shop. Cardini is close to the village’s main square, just behind the church. It makes a very pleasant place to enjoy a morning cappuccino whilst reading the newspapers. Just five minutes away by car, in the neighbouring village of Campino, is the Rampolina restaurant, arguably the most popular restaurant outside Stresa’s main square. Located in an old working men’s club, the interior is particularly atmospheric.

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Like all villages on the hills above the lake, Someraro used to be a farming community. Income from rye, wheat and wine was obviously insufficient so, as elsewhere, many of the male villagers emigrated, often working as basket makers or kitchen staff. Probably without great success as no grand mansions were built on the back of fortunes made abroad - unlike the Val Vigezzo area for example. There is no longer any farming but vestiges can be seen in the countless slowly crumbling stone terraces which are etched into the woodland landscape surrounding the village. The houses are huddled together so closely not for defensive purposes, but because land, though exceedingly difficult to farm, given the gradient, was at a premium. Notice the typical rusty brown colour of the local stone used in the houses (including the ground floor of Casa Lavender).

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Other than its uniquely splendid views, Someraro’s only other claim to fame is as the site of the very first social dairy in Italy, inspired by the Swiss model. The dairy was housed in the building opposite the church in the main square; later it became the village school (now closed). The permanent population now numbers less than 200 people - insufficient to sustain a small school.

Another fascinating feature of the village is the dramatic flight of steps leading up from the main square and connecting the top and central parts of the village. This is known as the Scala Santa (Holy Stairway - Stairway to Heaven).

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There are two roads down to Stresa, a narrow country road winding its way through the woods or a longer two-lane road. The former starts at the bottom of the village and so is convenient if you are based there; you need to keep an eye out for traffic heading in the opposite direction though. On corners, use the parabolic mirrors. There is usually enough space for two cars to pass each other though there is a 100 metre stretch where one car will need to reverse. The two-lane road is easier to access from the top of the village.

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Someraro is on the main walking route (L1) up to the top of the ski-resort of Mottarone (nearly 1500 metres). You can walk up and take the cable car down, getting on or off the cable car at the half-way station at Alpino, very close to the famous Alpine gardens.

Once you’ve wandered the photogenic alleyways, you might want to head off for some hiking into the woods. There are two walks, one heading south and one north; neither are particularly well sign-posted. Take Strada Comunale Selvalunga past Casa Lavender; continue on over the motorway tunnel until you reach the road. Follow the road downhill for a couple of hundred metres until you reach a red and yellow walkers signpost pointing upwards through the woods. Continue upwards along a steep path until you come to the panoramic road leading to the village of Levo; from there, it’s downhill all the way to Someraro, where possible, cutting corners by taking the old lanes predating construction of the modern road.

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The best walk from Someraro has to be the one heading north through the woods to a wonderful agriturismo above the village of Campino. It starts from behind Someraro cemetery (look for the church on a spur just above the village). On the way, you should pass some abandoned hamlets now overgrown with trees. Take the left-hand fork at the cemetery and keep walking for around three kilometres. Unfortunately the walk is not sign-posted so the agriturismo can be difficult to find, especially as just before your arrival, the track peters out. Alternatively, you can drive to the agriturismo. Take the main road behind Someraro, heading uphill until you reach the village of Levo. Take the first right at the entrance to Levo and follow directions to L’Ordin. The farm is situated in a large clearing in the trees and offers stunning views over the lake.

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For a fascinating taste of the mountains, just 5 minutes from Someraro, follow the road up to the neighbouring village of Levo (5 minutes by car); take the first turning on the right at the entrance to the village, just before the bar (as for the Ordin agriturismo), and continue for several kilometres until the asphalt road turns into an unsurfaced track. This is a landscape of rough pasture, derelict and working farms, beech and birch woods and cooler temperatures.

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Free mineral water

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Whilst you’re in the village of Levo, you could do like the locals and stock up on free mineral water gushing from the purissima fountain on the main road running through the village. Regardless of the weather, at any time of day, there seem to be people filling bottles with water. There have been plans to bottle and sell the water but the project appears they have been put into abeyance.

 

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