Tucked away in the forested hills above Lago d'Orta at a height of 800 metres, the twin villages of Quarna Sopra and Quarna Sotto, with a combined population of less than 700, are invisible from Lago d’Orta, 500 metres below.

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The winding country lane that leads up from the lake below passes through both communities and then peters out on the wooded slopes of a mountain; so with plenty of hiking opportunities, the villages make a great place to get away from the hustle and bustle of the lakeside area.

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Make sure to visit the dramatic viewpoint offering views over Lago d'Orta and Mottarone. 

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In the summer months, bars and restaurants reopen to cater to the handful of tourists and returning local residents. The two villages are ethnographically interest because, until recently, they were isolated from the rest of the world, and traditionally even spoke two different dialects despite being less than one kilometre apart.

 

Woody Allen

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But their main interest lies elsewhere: Whilst unknown in Italy, Quarna is well-known amongst professional saxophone players. In fact, one tiny company, Rampone & Cazzani, is an important name in the saxophone business. Famous saxophonists have traditionally flocked to this isolated valley to have their instruments personalised. Gerry Mulligan, Chris Collins and Jan Garbarek made a pilgrimage to the factory, whilst Courtney Pine and Woody Allen both bought instruments; Woody Allen’s first instrument was from Quarna.

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Not only is the company one of the most highly regarded but also one of the oldest manufacturers, dating back to 1818; it decided to specialise in saxophones after a chance meeting between the founder and Adolphe Sax, the inventor of the instrument.

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Certainly unique in its field, a small team of specialist workers produces several hundred pieces every year, eschewing all forms of automation, so much so that work can carry on regardless during power cuts, with workers using techniques dating back to the "golden age" of saxophone manufacture.

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For example, the copper bell, body and neck are hammered using a wooden hammer crafted from trees in the local woodland. Each hand-made instrument requires around 200 hours work.

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To get a good flavour of the manufacturing process, visit the museum which showcases the history of instrument manufacture in the village, not just saxophones, but also other wind instruments.

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The ground floor has some interesting ethnographic displays, showing reproductions of village life scenes over the years.