orta san giulio
With its stunningly picturesque medieval centre and UNESCO sacro monte heritage site, many consider the hugely romantic lakeside town of Orta San Giulio the highlight of their trip to Italy. Orta has it all: impossibly gorgeous lakeside villas, a completely pedestrian stone-roofed town, a magical island crowned by an ancient monastery, plenty of nooks and crannies to explore and one of Italy's prettiest holy mountains. In short, the quintessential Italian Lakes destination and a must-see sight on anybody’s itinerary.
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By far the most atmospheric approach to the town of Orta is along the lakeside path which curls all the way around a magnificent promontory. The path starts at the lakeside below the area’s most conspicuous landmark, Villa Crespi, a fascinating building featuring a blend of gothic and arabesque styles with a magnificent minaret which would not have looked out of place in 19th Century Baghdad.
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Villa Crespi is a hotel and Michelin two star restaurant. It owes its current fame in Italy at least partially to the fact that its owner, Antonino Cannavacciuolo, was chosen to present the Italian versions of Hell’s Kitchen and Masterchef.
Follow the lakeside path and you’ll find yourself in superb Piazza Motta, Orta’s main square, theatrically framing the island.
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The best time of course is when the crowds leave at the end of the day and you’ll hopefully have the square to yourself. You’ll realise just how little the town has changed over the centuries.
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Watch out for the mosquitoes if you go in the evening however.
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The piazza is edged with elegant palazzi, pretty houses, cafes and shops selling quality local produce and souvenirs including printed fabrics and other arts and crafts. On the northern side of the piazza and completely detached from the other buildings is a porticoed late renaissance structure dating back to 1582.
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Once used for administrative purposes, it now hosts exhibitions.
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The other standout building, at the end of a steep cobbled road leading up from the piazza is Santa Maria Assunta Church. With its breathtaking views, the Church is unsurprisingly often decorated with flowers and used as a glorious wedding venue.
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Isola di San Giulio (Island of San Giulio)
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If time allows, most visitors to Orta include a trip to the island (Isola di San Giulio) floating invitingly in the middle of the lake. There are public boat service running regularly between Orta and the island and continuing on to the pretty town of Pella on the far side, famous for its gelateria offering top-notch ice-creams. During the busy summer months, when Orta can be swamped by tourists, Pella can make a good base for your visit to the lake as parking is usually easier. Private boat services cost a little more but departure times are flexible.
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A thriving convent, with seventy cloistered nuns, occupies the heart of the island and a circular, cobbled road loops around the island, with the high walls of the monastery and garden on one side and private houses and villas on the other. This means your tour of the island can be over surprisingly quickly.
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The only opportunity to leave this “ring road”, punctuated by signs demanding hushed tones from visitors, is afforded by short alleyways descending to the lake where there are often traditional wooden jetties.
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These make great places for soaking up the sun whilst dangling your legs in the cool water. The main sight of interest is the very ancient Romanesque Basilica of San Giulio (San Julius’ church).
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Try to arrive on a Sunday before 11.00 to attend mass and to hear the choir. In the crypt look out for the shrivelled remains of San Giulio himself. Enlivening this otherwise fairly solemn island which has a permanent “secular” population of just 4, you’ll find one shop selling tourist trinkets and one restaurant.
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Orta’s other big attraction is its hilltop Unesco World Heritage Site Holy Mountain with 21 chapels nestled amongst beautiful woodland. Many contain astonishing tableaux vivants, some of which were designed to terrify the faithful with threats of damnation should they stray.
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The Sacro Monte can be reached on foot either from Orta town or from Villa Crespi, the arabesque building, now a very swish hotel and restaurant. It is also possible to take a tourist train which sets off from opposite the tourist office (again very close to Villa Crespi).
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Lago d’Orta (Orta Lake) has come back from the brink after decades of devastating pollution caused by local factories. Thanks to a successful liming campaign, the waters are clean and safe for swimming.
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The lake is large enough to offer something for everybody, with several very pleasant villages to explore, especially on the quieter, less accessible western shore, as well as some great beaches, including what is arguably the top beach in the entire region: Lagna beach, edged by woodland, with its wooden pier and gorgeous views.
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Many like to combine a trip to the town with a swim in the lake. If you’ve parked in Orta, one very enjoyable option is to reach your swimming destination by public boat service. Buccione, Lagna or Pella can all be reached by boat.