Though the largest town on the eastern shore, Luino has an easy-going provincial air. Like most lakeside towns, Luino is at its best when approached from the lake. The ferry is not only the most picturesque, but also the most practical way to arrive and depart, especially during the summer months when the crowds can be overpowering.

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Once you have disembarked, you can either stroll along the recently completed lakeside promenade or cross over the busy main road and you are in the largely car-free old town, a warren of cobbled alleyways threading their way between old buildings.

Luino has few specific sites, other than its churches, so many visitors are quite happy to bask in the summer sunshine around the town’s most attractive feature: its small harbour where motor boats can be rented to cross the lake and visit the famous Cannero island castles.

 

Luino station

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Wander further inland and you’ll come to Luino’s station. With its large neoclassical building, several administrative offices and six tracks, such a grand structure comes as a surprise in a town of just 15000 people. The reason is that though 15 kilometres from the Swiss border, when the San Gotthard tunnel was built in the 1870’s, Luino was chosen as the international border station, complete with customs office. The plan was to use the line as an alternative route for goods traffic between Swizerland and Genova, thereby avoiding Milan.

 

Railway museum

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Associated with the station there is a railway museum housing several locomotives. The small museum is open on Saturday afternoons but it is probably wise to check before a visit.  

 

Luino market

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No mention of Luino would be complete without reference to its famous market, sometimes claimed –hyperbolically - to be Europe’s oldest and largest outdoor market. Probably due to ease of access from Switzerland, by car, train or boat, the Luino market, held in the scenically unremarkable modern part of the town, has become famous abroad, arguably more so than in Italy - with visitors flocking from just over the border in Switzerland as well as from much further afield every Wednesday morning.

A fascinating, albeit chaotic experience, there is now much less in the way of local produce than there used to be when farmers would descend from their mountains retreats to sell their wares.

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Though bursting with colour, some would claim that Luino market is overrated in that it sells the same articles - cheap clothing, household articles and food - as other markets, just in greater volume. As many visitors arrive from Switzerland by train, the route between Luino station and the main market area is lined by unofficial stalls.

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Another popular way to get to Luino is the special ferry service which runs on a Wednesday and which sails directly from Stresa to Luino on market day.

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Cycle tracks

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If you want to get away from the crowds, you can head inland along a cycle/walking track following the course of a stream all the way to Rancio Valcuvia. The track starts just in front of Luino station.

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The area’s two cycle loops, curling around Lake Varese and Lake Commabbio are understandably very popular. But to some extent, especially at weekends, they have been victims of their own success and are often awash with runners, dog walkers, in-line skaters and cyclists. Both of them also have several stretches which run alongside busy main roads. 

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A valid alternative is the 17 km route starting at Luino lakeside from the main landing stage and running inland all the way to Cuveglio.

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Luino cycle track offers the added bonus that you can arrive by boat though it should be emphasised that not all boats accept bikes and sometimes it is at the boat captain’s discretion. Consult the public boat timetable for information. Also, Wednesdays, which is market day in Luino is not be a good choice due to crowds.

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The route runs through the town of Luino, passing in front of the station but you are soon out amongst fields. This cycle track is particularly attractive as it winds its way along the valley bottom, through the countryside, alongside a stream, generally avoiding roads and built-up areas although there are two underpasses allowing you to cycle underneath the valley’s main road.

Along the way there are several agriturismi providing a wonderful opportunity to have lunch out in the open air.

One highly enjoyable section is at Rancio where a serpentine raised wooden walkway has been built through marshy woodland.

You can avoid the built-up area in Luino by joining the track later. Just bear in mind that there is a distinct lack of signage. Consequently, as the track blends in very well with the surrounding countryside, it can be difficult to spot. The best bet is to make your way to the river, alongside which the track runs.

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If you’d like to make a detour to visit what are billed as Lombardy’s most spectacular ravines, you can take a steep uphill detour along the road which passes through the village of Ferrero Varese, up to Cunardo. 

You’ll see the signs on the left just before entering the town of Cunardo.