One of several similarly sized towns on the Western shore of Lago Maggiore south of Stresa, Lesa is located between Meina and Belgirate. The small town offers an attractive promenade overlooking the lake with an assortment of bars and restaurants as well as a delightfully old-fashioned porticoed area.

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One of the pleasures of Lesa is simply strolling along the lakefront, or for a short detour, you can explore the warren of deserted narrow cobbled streets just above the lakeside road.

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Many visit Lesa to shop at the famous Herno outlet which is located a couple of kilometres outside town in the direction of Solcio. Other shopping opportunities are provided by a couple of antique shops, one of which specialises in interesting twentieth century articles.

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Running parallel to the main road but ten or so metres higher, there is a pleasant path linking the town with Belgirate. The walk takes around one hour.

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Just above the railway line, look out for a small area which clearly enjoys its own rare Mediterranean microclimate. There are huge cactuses, exotic flowers and even citrus trees. Looking down on the town from above, you’ll notice a fine roof-scape: a patchwork of terracotta tiles punctuated by occasional chimneys.

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Solcio

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This picturesque village which tumbles down from the steep wooded hillside to the lake, is almost unique as it boasts a working harbour where fishermen still sell their wares from a lakeside stall.

 

Have a wander round the village centre, admiring the pretty buildings and the miniscule courtyards sheltering an abundance of greenery and then head for the harbour.

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Boats have always been crucial to the existence of this tiny fishing village, strung around a small harbour.

Years ago, the big shipyard between the harbour and the campsite made water taxis, many of which are still in use in Stresa and still proudly sporting the Solcio brand.

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The boat building business is defunct; instead, high end motor boats are now sold.

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Fish from Lago Maggiore used to provide an important source of income and sustenance for the locals but over the last few decades slowly dwindled away until a health scare in 1996, caused by DDT pollution from a factory in Val d’Ossola, almost put the final nail in the coffin with a complete ban on catching lake fish.

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Since the ban was lifted around ten years ago, fishing has come back from the brink. Now a few men again set off at night to ply the lakes with their nets. You might be lucky enough to catch sight of a scene more usually associated with the sea: a diminutive fishing boat chugging back to base whilst chased by a whirling cloud of seagulls.

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So if you want to be sure of eating freshly caught lake fish, rather than the fish caught elsewhere which most restaurants sell, arrive early in the morning at Solcio harbour.

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Though people fish in other areas of the lake, this is the only spot where you can buy fresh fish and fish-based cooked meals.

Look for the stall by the water’s edge. Be sure to arrive early. Next to the stall, floating in the harbour, with no visible means of propulsion, lies a wooden craft containing a simple restaurant – open only at lunch. If you’re not partial to fish, there are plenty of alternatives; in fact Solcio probably boasts more eateries per head than any place on the lake.

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Beaches

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In addition to a popular open-air swimming pool (the Lido), there are three beaches on Lesa’s sunny alluvial plain, including a fine seaside-style organised beach offering a host of amenities. 

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Nearest to the town centre, just ten minutes on foot, lies a small triangle of beach. Though pebbly and with no facilities other than a shower, it makes a fine spot for a quick dip.

 

Castellaccio beach

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The stones on tiny Castellaccio beach, next to an overgrown, ruined castle, are large enough to be classified as rocks and so sunbathing can be a painful experience without towels or a sunbed. In short, this beach has little to recommend it other than a couple of grassy terraces and a shower.

 

Lido

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Most towns of a reasonable size on Lago Maggiore now have their own swimming pools. Though the older ones tend to be open air, they retain a pleasing retro air and typically provide a family-friendly atmosphere; they sometimes even have a diving board section. These older pools are also a lot deeper than the recently built ones such as in Stresa, where for reasons of legal liability and associated insurance costs, the pool depth does not exceed 1.5 metres.

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Fortunately, Lesa belongs to the older generation and is one of the few pools with both a spring board and a high diving board. Outdoor pools are usually not heated and can therefore be either refreshingly bracing or impossibly chilly, depending on the weather.

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Open during the summer, there is a bar where the usual amenities are available. The Lido is part of an attractive sports centre containing tennis courts, a gym and a restaurant.

 

Erno beach

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Local authorities have been encouraging businesses to take over the running of popular beaches, turning them into family-friendly attractions during the day and creating ambient lakefront locations for a younger crowd in the evenings, often with music.   Competition between the various beachside towns has become fierce and  concession holders have had to up their game.

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Recently opened Erno beach, situated where the river Erno runs into Lake Maggiore, has not done things by half measures and the team behind it obviously invested a great deal of money to landscape the terrain, add tons of sand, set up a snack bar/restaurant and beach volley court and provide anchored parasols and sunbeds and other facilities. There is even a Jacuzzi.  The team have done everything with great style and have succeeded in creating a real Italian seaside ambiance, reminiscent of organised beaches on the Adriatic Coast.

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All the usual amenities are available: beach umbrellas, sunbeds, showers and toilets and there is even a private area which can be rented in the most scenic spot.

 

Parking

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There is plenty of free parking space