Arrayed on forested slopes sweeping down steeply to Lago Maggiore, sunny Ghiffa is a collection of small scattered settlements. Most people only ever see the photogenic ensemble of elegant pastel-coloured villas and houses strung out along the lakeside road when passing through or stopping for a drink in one of the characterful bars. If you have time though, it is certainly worth heading uphill to explore the languorous little villages overlooking the lake.

​

Sacro Monte

​

But, Ghiffa’s main draw is its Unesco World Heritage Site, the Sacro Monte perched scenically on a ledge high above the lake, the only such Holy Mountain overlooking Lago Maggiore; unsurprisingly, the views from this vantage point, surrounded by woodland, are stellar. The small, baroque complex of buildings, dating back to the seventeenth century comprises a sanctuary, three chapels and the Via Crucis Stations of the Cross which are set in a long portico.

​

The area around the Sacro Monte all the way up to the top of the steep wooded slopes, is a nature reserve and offers an enjoyable range of trails through the thick canopy of trees.

 

Panizza Hat museum

​

Surprisingly, Intra (Verbania) used to be known as the Manchester of Italy due to its great concentration of manufacturing industries. There is very little left now other than a few husks of defunct factories.

​

One former factory building, located picturesquely on the lake to the south of Ghiffa was the site of an important hat manufacturer: Panizza, which closed in 1981. The company was once so renowned as to rival the more famous Borsalino. Like Borsalino, Panizza is still in business though on a much reduced scale and production has long been transferred to Tuscany. The old lakeside factory was turned into apartments and an interesting hat museum showcasing the history of felt hats.