The walk to the Gattascosa rifugio/mountain hut is one of the most popular in the area as the hike is a decent length (one and a half hours, one way), not particularly steep with a vertical climb of no more than 500 metres and because the destination lies just below a saddle on the Swiss border.

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Start by taking the A26/E62 motorway north up towards Switzerland. Exit at Domodossola, following the signs for Bognanco, driving up a side valley off the main Ossola Valley.

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You'll pass through the main town in the Valley, named Bognanco, a doleful place consisting largely of derelict or shuttered hotels.

The town, well known locally for its mineral water and cold water spa, has obviously fallen on hard times; in fact Bognanco has been on a downward spiral ever since the Italian government decided to cease subsidising worker's stays in spa resorts. Interestingly, Bognanco's mineral water was the first in Italy to be bottled using a completely automated system in 1928.

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As you continue, the valley opens up, revealing wonderful mountain vistas. You pass through various tiny villages until you reach the end of the road at San Bernardo where there is a large car park and a rifugio/mountain hut.

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The hiking route up to Gattascosa is well marked so follow the signs. As this is a popular route, you might well have company on the way. You'll pass by a couple of small lakes which make perfect spots to sit and have a break or a picnic or even a dip if you don’t mind cold water.

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Soon after, at around 2000 metres above sea level, you'll reach Gattascosa rifugio/mountain hut, an attractive, recently built structure in a beautiful, sunny location, open every day in summer and on weekends during the winter – one of the few mountains huts.

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If you are interested in eating there, it is usually best to book ahead: +393283151669 or info@rifugiogattascosa.com. Meals usually comprise typical mountain fare such as polenta (cooked outdoors on a fire), sausages or local cheeses, homemade cakes or strudels, coffee and wine. To round it all off, the rifugio provides delicious sugar lumps soaked in homemade liquor flavoured with lemon, aniseed, sage or cinnamon.

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For those overnighting, the rooms are very clean and cosy.

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When you are ready to head homewards, you have a couple of options. If you prefer, you can retrace your steps directly to San Bernardo or continue on to the Swiss border at Monscera Pass, just 30 minutes away. There is also an alternative, slightly longer, but smoother descent back to the car park along an unsurfaced road. On the way down, you’ll pass in front of a dairy where you can buy cheese.

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Gattascosa also makes a great winter destination for walking with snowshoes, as there is no danger of avalanches.