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Frequently claimed to be Lago Maggiore’s answer to world famous Portofino on the Mediterranean coast, Calde huddles beneath a dramatic crag plunging into the waters of the lake. In reality, the village poses no threat to Portofino though it is undoubtedly the most attractive lakeside village on the eastern Lombardy shore. 

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The village comprises a small centre with old stone buildings surrounded by Belle Époque villas, all of which blend seamlessly into lush, verdant surrounds. From the village’s main lakeside square, you can either head south towards a string of stony beaches, or, otherwise can walk northwards along a short stretch of coast which has recently been landscaped.

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Cross a stream on a little wooden bridge and you’ll see Calde’s most interesting feature: two huge dilapidated lakeside lime kilns which are supposedly fenced off and inaccessible to the public due to the danger of collapse. Many young people disregard instructions to keep out and make a beeline for this beautiful wild coastal area which has been reclaimed by nature. They hold parties on the rough white limestone beaches, jump from the ruins into the lake and cover walls in graffiti; this is amongst Lago Maggiore's few areas of totally untamed lakeside wilderness.

 

Santa Veronica church

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No trip to Calde would be complete without a trip up to Santa Veronica church which sits on a dramatic natural balcony and offers spectacular views over the lake and forested slopes sweeping down to the small town. The small church is usually closed but there is a glorious cliff-top meadow behind it which makes a great spot for a picnic. If you're not exhausted from the exertion you can continue all the way up to the top of the hill where there is a war memorial and the ruins of a castle.

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Cerro

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Popular Cerro seems to be a Mediterranean resort lost on the shores of Lago Maggiore. It has everything you’d expect in an Italian seaside town including throngs of day-trippers, a pleasing arc of sandy beachbacked by trees, quaint bars and snack-bars, parking, various amenities, shady areas and even a minute Mediterranean-style fishing port where sailing courses are organised.

 

Cerro Ceramics museum

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For a change of tone or a respite from the heat, just cross the road behind the beach for Cerro’s important ceramics museum dedicated to showcasing the key role played in Italy’s ceramics industry by Laveno and the surrounding area (an industry which is now defunct).

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Ispra

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With its lengthy expanse of waterfront partially linked by a wonderful cycle/walking track, Ispra is very well endowed with popular beaches, running the gamut from manicured lawns to rugged rocks and even a tiny sandy beach area.

 

Arriving by boat, a clutch of unlovely post-war buildings hoves into view. The small town of Ispra lies hidden from sight just over the brow of a  bluff. But Ispra is all about its waterfront promenade which is perhaps the longest on Lago Maggiore. 

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The town is very well endowed with beaches running the gamut from immaculately maintained parkland with manicured lawns to rugged rocks and even a tiny sandy beach area. With so much space, you can be sure of finding plenty of private patches to lay down a towel as you leisurely watch the boats coming and going from the two small ports.

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And if you’ve had too much sun, you can take refuge in one of the bars or restaurants or otherwise explore the intriguing lakeside walkway which hugs the coast before veering off inland. Eventually you’ll arrive at the wild Fornaci beach, renowned for its huge old limestone kiln.

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Heading in the other direction (south) along a flat cycle track, running primarily inland, you’ll eventually reach the village of Ranco.

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