A wonderful little lakeside town on a bend in the lake (hence the name), unspoilt Belgirate is truly spectacular in the early morning when the sun’s rays bounce off the waters and illuminate the pastel coloured buildings, making them sparkle. At the same time, there is always a refreshing early morning breeze blowing, attracting windsurfers who race backwards and forwards across the lake in the dazzling light. 

 

Belgirate is one of the few areas suitable for windsurfing in the southern section of the lake and hosts a popup summer windsurfing school on the main road opposite Hotel Villa Carlotta.

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If you enjoy an early start to the day, Belgirate makes a great spot for breakfast in one of the two or three bars open in the morning. Afterwards you can stroll along the lengthy lakeside promenade, southwards towards the next town of Lesa or northwards to the windsurfing area.

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Alternatively, if you’re feeling fit, you can climb the dauntingly long flight of stairs up past the main church. You’re now in the romantic mediaeval core and can explore the beguiling maze of winding cobbled alleyways, nearly all too narrow for traffic.

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Venturing upwards, you come to the railway line which bisects the tiny town. There are two underpasses, one pedestrian and one for cars. Take either and make your way to the ancient church of Santa Maria del Suffragio, arguably the most beautifully sited church on the lake and a popular choice for weddings (ours included). Picturesque at any time of day, this jewel of a building with its Romanesque campanile dating back to the XI century, is truly spectacular in the early morning when it is bathed in golden light.

Turning our backs on the photogenic roof-scape of terracotta tiles below us and heading uphill, we can see that this entire sunny spur, which is now largely either overgrown or built on, used to be terraced. It is hard to picture now, but due to its favourable sunny exposure, the area used to be carpeted in vineyards and fruit trees in an uninterrupted flow of fields and terraces held in place by dry stone walls.

 

Stendhal

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Returning to the lake, you’ll notice that, in common with the other towns along this stretch of lake, Belgirate boasts a fine assortment of magnificent eighteenth and nineteenth century mansions, once popular with Italian aristocrats and writers including Italy’s most famous: Manzoni. One of the most renowned French writes, Stendhal, envisaged Belgirate as the place where the duchess of Sanseverina and the young Fabrizio del Dongo met up in Certosa di Parma.

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Belgirate Beach

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Though Belgirate boasts a long, purpose-built lakeside promenade, including a wonderful stretch near the centre of this small town, there is just one "beach", a smallish flat area just 100 metres south of the town centre on a raised concrete platform between the road and the lake.

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More popular with sunbathers than swimmers, you have to clamber down to the water; the artificial beach has a smooth, well-groomed surface of fine gravel. The owner of the adjacent snack bar, open during the summer months, is responsible for keeping the beach neat and tidy. Facilities include showers and toilets. Access to the beach is free.

 

Windsurfing

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After Cannobio, Belgirate is probably the second best spot on the lake for windsurfing, though winds are only suitable in the early morning. The starting point is opposite Villa Carlotta hotel where a pop-up school sometimes operates. You might want to pack a wetsuit though as these waters can get pretty nippy.

 

Parking

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There is usually plenty of free parking along the lakeside.

 

Public Transport

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There is a regular bus and train service from Arona and Stresa.