Like most lakeside towns, Baveno is at its most picturesque when approached from the lake. Time seems to have stood still for centuries, once you’re away from the lakeside road. Alight from the ferry boat, cross the road and you are already in the beguiling tangle of crooked alleyways threading their way between quaint red-roofed buildings.

 

Ever since the grand tourists discovered Lago Maggiore, Baveno has had to live in the shadow of its more glamorous neighbour, Stresa, just a few kilometres to the south. The town has also had to play second fiddle to Stresa as a spring-board for the classic island trips. Nevertheless, Baveno is an attractive place to wander around, (especially since the road running through the town centre was recently beautified with cobblestones). Like Stresa, the town abounds in belle époque villas and boasts a pleasant lakeside promenade.

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The town also caters to a slightly younger public with its trendy lake-side Lido offering an artificial sandy beach and beach volley.

Quarry town.

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Baveno grew up as a working quarry town and is famous throughout Italy for its pink granite. You’re sure to notice, sitting in pride of place on the lake front, a sculpted granite picasass (stone cutter) intent on chiselling a piece of granite. A museum, Granun, dedicated to granite quarrying is sited alongside the jewel in Baveno’s crown: the magnificent church of Saints Gervaso and Protaso, scenically set in a tranquil partially porticoed square together with a baptistery. Despite appearances, only the facade of the church is Romanesque.

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There is an extensive area of beaches on the north side of town, either side of the river. In addition to the swish Lido, there is a free entry public area where the river flows into the lake and then, alongside this, there are the Villa Fedora public gardens with lush parkland and sweeping lawns - an ideal spot to relax with a picnic. These gardens are named after the famous Fedora opera composed by Umberto Giordano who used to live in the Villa.

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Supermarkets 

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In practical terms, Baveno also makes a useful port of call to stock up on provisions. Next to the bridge over the River on the northern edge of the town there is aSavoini supermarket and further north there is a much larger Conad supermarket with rooftop parking.

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For anybody wishing to visit Isola Madre, Baveno makes the quickest and cheapest departure point as the ferry sails directly from Baveno without any intermediate stops.

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Baveno beaches

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If you’re looking for some lake-time in Baveno, your first port of call has to be Baveno Lido, tucked away in a back street and therefore often overlooked by tourists. With its wonderful views across the lake towards Verbania, an extensive artificial sandy beach, a cool lounge bar and restaurant, a large grassy expanse, sun-beds for rent, a jetty for mooring boats, inflatable floating islands,  beach volley and plenty of other facilities, the Lido offers everything you’d expect from a trendy lakeside location.  

 

The only downside is that you have to negotiate a thin strip of stony beach to reach the water

The Lido really comes into its own in the evening after dark though, especially on weekends, when a DJ cranks up the music and beautiful young things emerge to dance the night away. Baveno Lido is probably Lago Maggiore's hippest outdoor bar though Meina Beach runs it a close second.

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If you're counting your pennies, you can simply lay down a towel on the grassy embankment next to the Lido or settle down on the gravelly estuary where a stream flows into the lake, and where compulsive dam builders can do their thing.

Otherwise, cross the river and head for the attractive Villa Fedora park. Here too there is a gravelly beach and you will also find a snack stall.

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But if you’re looking for real sand so that your children can get some use out of their buckets and spades, jump in your car and head for the very pretty village of Feriolo at the end of the lake, just five minutes from Baveno.

 

Feriolo

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A fine, sandy, triangular beach, marred slightly only by its position – hemmed in between the main road, a floating port and the delightful village of Feriolo.

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A couple of hundred metres northwards there is a much more peaceful, larger sandy beach which slopes very gradually into the lake.

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Parking

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There is limited free parking by the Lido.

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Public transport

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There is a regular all-year boat, bus and train service between Baveno and Stresa.