Ranging in height from 1600 metres to 3553, these two Shangri-La valleys, abutting Switzerland are amongst the most idyllic in the Alps.

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Together forming the Alpe Veglia and Alpe Devero nature reserve, the two valleys are hidden away from view and protected by rings of towering peaks; nestling in bowl-like depressions, the smattering of tiny communities are only revealed in all their pastoral beauty at the very last moment as you crest the final bend.

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Both settlements share a similar layout with a fairly circular area of flat pasture and meadow-land, presumably once the site of ancient lakes.

 

The area is unique in that it has largely remained unscathed by post-war development: massive development as part of a major ski domaine in Alpe Devero and the building of a huge dam in Alpe Veglia were both seen off by a combination of local opposition, shortage of funds and fear of seepage into the Simplon train tunnel.

 

Both valleys have a few seasonal settlements where it is possible to stock up on supplies, dine and stay overnight, maybe in a pension, a hotel or even a wonderful all wood mountain refuge. There are a handful of modern houses in Alpe Devero but building is no longer permitted and so the valleys have essentially retained their ancient appearance. No longer isolated, secret refuges, they both convey a sense of bucolic peace, encouraging visitors to linger as long as possible and explore the welcoming meadows and rustic buildings.

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Alpe Devero

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Alpe Devero, which lies a few kilometres after the town of Baceno, can easily be reached by car; after going through a tunnel, you'll find a car-park just below the village. Plenty of people are happy to while away the afternoon soaking up the sun in the fields or on the terrace of a bar, but it is worth making the effort to reach the picture-perfect hamlet of Crampiolo, less than one hour on foot from Devero, especially scenic in the winter. Totally unspoilt, almost every single house has a stone roof. A  popular walk continues on beyond Crampiolo up to the lake Codelago dam. The more adventurous can then circumnavigate the lake (four hours walk and a height difference of 400 metres)

 

Once dependent almost entirely on agriculture, and to a lesser extent on hydroelectric energy, Alpe Devero nowadays relies on tourism, not only in the summer but also during the winter months. There are several ski lifts and runs. If you're lucky, you may spot a chamois, marmot, or a mountain hare while birdlife includes numerous colonies of rare species such as the golden eagle and the black grouse.

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Alpe Veglia

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Alpe Veglia is much less accessible and quieter and requires a hike from San Domenico where the road ends, at least for those lacking access rights. It is possible to hitch a ride on a four by four vehicle but the single-lane track is terrifying as it climbs steeply along the edge of a gorge, so you may prefer walking. Due to tricky access, Alpe Veglia hibernates through the winter months.